Correctly forecast,.it rained hard with a strong breeze all day until 4 ish. Yuck. Exploring the north of the island was a good idea. We drove to the island of Berneray via Sollas, exploring all side tracks and dead ends. Enjoyable despite the conditions.
Berneray cannot be recognised as a separate island, except on the map, the linking causeway merely joins rocky formations.
Possibly the greatest change in modern times occurred in 1999 when the causeway opened between Berneray and Otternish on North Uist. This has eased travelling on and off the island, improving employment prospects and accelerating the carriage of produce (notably, crabs and lobster). The causeway contains culverts that allow the easy passage of otters and fish from one side of the structure to the other. The causeway was formally opened by Prince Charles in April 1999.[9](Wikipedia)
A small ferry runs from Berneray to Lewis, we saw it rocking and rolling away in the rain mist and white horses.
Driving as far as we could, we found the inevitable graveyard - all Scotland dead end roads seem to end in them. This one was set above the road on the side of a mountain, ruined houses and golden gorse clumps below.
The end habitable house was rather grand, advertising hot drinks and snacks, another ruin beyond. We did see Lewis looming in the distance but it often disappeared in the murk.
We decided to lunch at the general stores cum Lobster Pot cafe instead. Home-made and rustic, yet delicious, leek and potato soup. Fortified we drove to Lochmaddy so that we knew how much time to allow for Saturday morning’s early trip to the ferry. About half an hour and 16 miles.
J had texted to tell us that the wind was due to change late afternoon and it would be worth going to Aird an Runair. We did so and again, the forecast was correct (D’s the weather man). Near 4 p.m. the wind became westerly and the rain stopped. We even had a weak sun appear. We spent a couple of hours sea-watching, enjoying the hundreds of small waders spending their time running the incoming tideline, flying about in clouds before starting the exercise again. Over a hundred strong flock of mixed gulls were dong the same thing. The tide must have ben bringing in lots of food. 1 Bonxie and 2 Pomarine Skuas flew through, we saw one of the Poms and the Bonxie. Great Northern Diver, Fulmar, Gannet, and Arctic Terns added to the species list.
Time to drive back for supper, last night’s leftovers needed heating and more garlic bread cooked. A calling Corncrake showed briefly.. I’m destined not to achieve decent photos again.
‘Our’
Corncrake was calling as we drove in. I spent the next forty minutes or
so playing hide and seek with him. I saw him on several occasions,
running between clumps, sticking his head up in the irises, peering
through the stems and generally being a Corncrake. He showed so well for
Pam that first evening.
After a late dinner, Pam suggested driving Committee road as it was a pleasant evening, still some light at 9 p.m. Which is when I took these photos of a Short-eared Owl perched on a post about 10 metres away. None of them are 100% sharp all over but, fairly good for the lighting conditions.
The photos I took of the Hen Harrier pair displaying to each other are not printable, so wonderful to experience and watch for the first time. As was the pair of Merlins displaying above a small conifer wood. And the pair of Golden Eagles flying together and talon grappling in mid-air. We then saw a Ring-tail Hen Harrier and two herds of Red Deer in the twilight, at gone 9.30. Wonderful.
After the dreadful weather, a day list containing Pomarine and Great Skua. Hen Harrier, Short-eared Owl, Buzzard, Great Northern Diver, Golden Eagle, Corncrake and Merlin shows why we come to North Uist. Lovely place.
We see Red-breasted Mergansers virtually every day. Such handsome birds.
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